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Hello Pigeon Fans!!

 Enjoy the second video below, it's one of my all time favorites and is wonderful for the kids. The first video is our Racer's Catalogue and Insider's Guide results. I will also add another sample from the pigeon Insider as well as the latest from Rae's Corner.





A rookie secret agent is faced with a problem seldom covered in basic training: what to do when a curious pigeon gets trapped inside your multi-million dollar, government-issued nuclear briefcase.



The Pigeon Insider:

The Pigeon Racing Medicine Cabinet        PART 1

Medicines which the fancier may be wise to stock, and the reasons to use them:

Baytril–a good choice for serious infections, mainly intestinal or systemic. This drug comes in tablet form and individual pigeons can be dosed at 5mg per pigeon per day. Flock treat with the liquid Baytril only (the tablets will not go into solution). Use for 5-10 days.

Do not use during reproduction and rapid growth of squabs.

Amoxicillin–a safer alternative drug to Baytril. It can be used during reproduction and racing without side effects. Not as broad spectrum as Baytril but often very effective in treating serious infections. Comes in tablet form (50mg) which can be used once or twice daily on individual cases. Flock treatment best accomplished using 3grams per gallon for 5-10 days.

Tetracycline drug (Terramycin, Aeuromycin, Tetracycline , or Doxycycline)–good for respiratory infections; best when used in combination with Tylan. One usually has no distinct advantage over the other and they share a common spectrum of activity. With the exception of Doxycycline, they are all available over the counter as poultry preparations. Use 4 teaspoonsful per gallon of the regular strength or 2 teaspoonsful per gallon of the concentrate. Doxycyline is dosed at 500-1000mg per gallon. Use these for 7-14 days.

Tylan–use as mentioned above, in combination with a tetracycline for respiratory infections. Tylan powder is dosed at 1-2 teaspoonsful per gallon. Individual dose at 50 mg per pigeon per day.

Delta Albaplex– this is a veterinary tablet which can be quite useful in treating individual cases of respiratory disease. It contains a tetracycline plus albamycin as well as a small amount of corticosteroid. Use 1/2 tablet twice daily for 3-7 days.

Amprolium– the standby for coccidiosis..treat at 1tsp/gallon of the 20% powder for 3-5 days.

Baycox (Toltazuril)–a newer more effective coccidiostat, not yet avilable in the USA but seems to be available through various channels. Can be used instead of Amprolium. Dose for 1-2 days at 4cc (100mg) per gallon.

Ronidazole (RIdzol)– for trichomonas…this is the safest of the three products commonly used but is not approved for use in this country. 1tsp per gallon for 3-5 days.

Emtryl (Dimetridazole)–for trichomonas…not approved for use in this country. Mexican or Canadian Emtryl dosed at 1/4-3/8 tsp per gallon for 3-5 days. Can cause seizures at higher doses.

Flagyl (Metronidazole)–for trichomonas…25-50 mg per pigeon per day for 1-3 days or 1250-2500 mg per gallon for 3-5 days.

Ivomec (Ivermectin)–wormer–500-1000micrograms(ug) per pigeon. Effective against Capallaria (hairworms) and Tetrameres and Dyspharynx (stomach wall worms); less effective against Roundworms.

Pyrantel pamoate–1-3mg per pigeon (75mg per gallon) for 1-2 days for roundworms only.

Tramisol (levamisole) 1-1.5 grams per gallon for one day for roundworms only.

Panacur (fenbendazole) effective against the three major worms but has potential to cause feather damage. Do not use during reproduction or moult. 5mg per pigeon per day for 3 days.

Quinacrine–antimalarial drug..use only in areas where malaria or Haemoproteus is a problem. Use for 4 weeks before flying season then one day weekly during races. Dosse at 200mg per gallon

There are many other choice available and I’ve kept it to what I consider a minimal, giving choices for some conditions. Not all of these drugs are commonly available. Consult your friendly veterinarian for help in acquiring some of these handy drugs as some are by perscription only.

See also Pigeon Medications Part 2

The Pigeon Racing Medicine Cabinet by Dr. David E. Marx DVM

RAE'S CORNER:
                                  Caring for Eggs                 

 At this time of year most pigeon fanciers will begin the breeding season. Since the early hatching birds are important we have some information that could be helpful. Many years ago I purchased an incubator to hatch eggs from various types of birds. With limited information and experience we started hatching eggs. In doing so we learned through experience.

 

   The egg shell is hard and separates the embryo from the outside elements. While the egg shell is hard on the outside it does continue to breathe. If the eggs happen to be somewhat dirty, they should be cleaned with warm water. Hard accumulations can be more difficult to remove, and require more water with a little very mild detergent for cleaning. If those accumulations are not removed the embryo, can develop early health problems. Sometimes the embryo will die prior to hatching, other times the bird hatches but lives only a few days.

 

   Eggs must be turned each day. Normally the old birds turn the eggs as they move around. However, sometimes that doesn’t happen often enough. We learned from hatching with the incubator that the eggs should be turned at least five times a day. Otherwise we had a high ratio of birds hatching with straddle legs. This is where the legs extend straight out from the sides. Seldom do the birds ever recover and will remain crippled. Once we started turning the eggs more often the problem disappeared.

 

   The egg requires high humidity to develop and hatch properly. The egg shell allows moisture to penetrate which helps the embryo survive. Water was placed in the incubator to make the air moist. You can experience instances where the young bird starts to hatch by pecking through the shell but never succeeds. In other cases the bird hatches, but the shell remains fastened and stuck to the bird. These issues are normally caused by lack of moisture. About two days before the birds should hatch, gently dip the eggs into water warmed to near body temperature. This procedure normally eliminates this problem. I have found by gently turning clean eggs at feeding times, and dipping the eggs prior to hatching to be certainly worth while.    RAE LEWIS



       Thanks for tuning in!!

             Glenn West